Jamdani Weave

The jamdani weave is a supplementary weft technique of weaving, where the artistic motifs are produced by a non-structural weft, in addition to the standard weft that holds the warp threads together.

The standard weft creates a fine, sheer fabric while the supplementary weft with thicker threads adds intricate patterns to it. Each one of the motif designs is handwoven into the muslin using a single continuous extra weft yarn.

The result is a complex mix of different patterns that appear to float on the surface of the Jamdani fabric. The pattern is not sketched or outlined on the fabric but is drawn on graph paper and placed underneath the warp. Often a mixture of cotton and gold thread was used. Usually the Jamdani motifs are geometric in its silhouette

The Jamdani motifs were traditionally inspired by nature, be it flora or fauna. And the characteristic feature of this craft was that motifs were always translated into geometric outlines or shapes.

Popular traditional Jamdani motif include panna hajar (thousand emeralds), kalka (paisley), butidar (small flowers), fulwar (flowers arranged in straight rows), tersa (diagonal patterns), jalar (motifs evenly covering the entire saree), duria (polka spots) and charkona (rectangular motifs).

 

TIMELINE OF JAMDANI TEXTILE PRODUCTION:

Jamdani textile weaving is a time-consuming process and requires skilled hands:

 

2 Weeks: Yarn Dyeing & Processing

1 Week: Loom Setting

1 Week: Weaving

1 Week: Washing & Finishing of the Jamdani cloth